Thursday, July 27, 2006
Spanish Rural Houses
One of the unheralded delights of Spain as far as tourism is concerned is the "Rural House". Deep in a forgotten valley or high up a hillside they provide a look into everyday spanish life, a chance to meet the natives, explode places that most tourists will never see and all at a fraction of the price of hotels.
The state-run paradors are OK for a visit with lots of stone staircases, paintings, history, and the occasional knight in armour and of course, everyone speaks english. They're all on the map with pretty signs but where's your sense of adventure and your love of meeting ordinary spanish people. Try a Rural House. There's lots of books out there giving pictures and locations and there's also plenty of web sites as well. They're usually old houses that have been renovated and because the local Tourist board fund a percentage of the changes the quality of workmanship is very high. And unlike a parador every room that you book will be different adding to the experience.
But as I'm sure you'll appreciate there's nothing in this life worth doing that comes easy. You have to make an effort. No pain, no gain. So it is with Rural Houses, if you happen to be a foreigner and your spanish is not that good.
So how to start on this adventure. The first issue, not a problem please, will be the actual booking. Even on the web sites there's few that allow you to book online. Here's one that does dormiren casas rurales. For the majority, it means using the phone. For the non-speakers amongst you, I've included a few basic phases but if you're really serious you really should buy a phase book.
The second problem, sorry issue, and possibly the more serious is actually locating the place. Signposting in Spain is a lost art. They all know that you'll be impatient with looking and dying to ask the nearest native "where is so-and-so?" Therefore the name you will be looking for will rather be a second thought and will be small, possibly in a local language, behind a tree, and will be noticable from only one direction. Give yourself plenty of time, make sure you have a good map and show lots of determination. Believe me it'll be worth it.
So here's 5 very good ones to get you started.
Casa Elizetxe, Guernica, Bilbao
High up in the hills above Guernica ( and if you've never heard of this place, ask Picasso ) it is very hard to find. We gave up the first time after driving pass the 2 inch square sign a couple of times. But believe me this is one of the best. Every room is different and has its own theme, there are birds making their nest in the high corners of the porch and there's lots of pleasant walks with wonderful scenery. An old church and the bar belonging to 86 year-old Beatrice are added sites.
Casa Perriola Etxea, Villanueve de Arce, Roncesvalles, Navarra
This one is easy to find as the village is small and the road ends just outside the house. A beautiful salon with a small terrace overlooking a lovely valley and near to the historical Roncesvalles where the pilgrims start their spanish walk to Compostela.
Los Castros, Covarrubias, Burgos
A lovely village very near to Santo Domingo de Silos where the famous chanting monks live. A house belonging to a nature photographer, every inch of the walls are covered in the treasures from his travels and his photographs. All of the rooms are done in a different colour, ask for the blue room, its the best.
Casa Pepa, Santa Columba de Somoza, Leon
A newly renovated house very near the Camino de Santiago. The dining room is very rustic and if you stay during the week you may well have it to yourselves.
Posada de Langre
Some regions of Spain call rural houses "posados". This one is near a lovely secluded beach and only 30 mins from Santander. You can enjoy a walk along the cliffs and watch the boats pass by and see Santander in the distance. Hurry before this wonderful area is spoilt like the south coast.
You'll notice that they are all in the north as that's where we prefer to travel. Less tourists.
A few easy phases to help:
Where is?: Donde esta?
Can I book a room?: Tiene una habitacion?
Single/Double: Sencilla/Matromonio
For one/two/three nights: Por una/dos/tres noches
With Shower? Con Ducha
The state-run paradors are OK for a visit with lots of stone staircases, paintings, history, and the occasional knight in armour and of course, everyone speaks english. They're all on the map with pretty signs but where's your sense of adventure and your love of meeting ordinary spanish people. Try a Rural House. There's lots of books out there giving pictures and locations and there's also plenty of web sites as well. They're usually old houses that have been renovated and because the local Tourist board fund a percentage of the changes the quality of workmanship is very high. And unlike a parador every room that you book will be different adding to the experience.
But as I'm sure you'll appreciate there's nothing in this life worth doing that comes easy. You have to make an effort. No pain, no gain. So it is with Rural Houses, if you happen to be a foreigner and your spanish is not that good.
So how to start on this adventure. The first issue, not a problem please, will be the actual booking. Even on the web sites there's few that allow you to book online. Here's one that does dormiren casas rurales. For the majority, it means using the phone. For the non-speakers amongst you, I've included a few basic phases but if you're really serious you really should buy a phase book.
The second problem, sorry issue, and possibly the more serious is actually locating the place. Signposting in Spain is a lost art. They all know that you'll be impatient with looking and dying to ask the nearest native "where is so-and-so?" Therefore the name you will be looking for will rather be a second thought and will be small, possibly in a local language, behind a tree, and will be noticable from only one direction. Give yourself plenty of time, make sure you have a good map and show lots of determination. Believe me it'll be worth it.
So here's 5 very good ones to get you started.
Casa Elizetxe, Guernica, Bilbao
High up in the hills above Guernica ( and if you've never heard of this place, ask Picasso ) it is very hard to find. We gave up the first time after driving pass the 2 inch square sign a couple of times. But believe me this is one of the best. Every room is different and has its own theme, there are birds making their nest in the high corners of the porch and there's lots of pleasant walks with wonderful scenery. An old church and the bar belonging to 86 year-old Beatrice are added sites.
Casa Perriola Etxea, Villanueve de Arce, Roncesvalles, Navarra
This one is easy to find as the village is small and the road ends just outside the house. A beautiful salon with a small terrace overlooking a lovely valley and near to the historical Roncesvalles where the pilgrims start their spanish walk to Compostela.
Los Castros, Covarrubias, Burgos
A lovely village very near to Santo Domingo de Silos where the famous chanting monks live. A house belonging to a nature photographer, every inch of the walls are covered in the treasures from his travels and his photographs. All of the rooms are done in a different colour, ask for the blue room, its the best.
Casa Pepa, Santa Columba de Somoza, Leon
A newly renovated house very near the Camino de Santiago. The dining room is very rustic and if you stay during the week you may well have it to yourselves.
Posada de Langre
Some regions of Spain call rural houses "posados". This one is near a lovely secluded beach and only 30 mins from Santander. You can enjoy a walk along the cliffs and watch the boats pass by and see Santander in the distance. Hurry before this wonderful area is spoilt like the south coast.
You'll notice that they are all in the north as that's where we prefer to travel. Less tourists.
A few easy phases to help:
Where is?: Donde esta?
Can I book a room?: Tiene una habitacion?
Single/Double: Sencilla/Matromonio
For one/two/three nights: Por una/dos/tres noches
With Shower? Con Ducha
Thank You: Gracias
// posted by daniel @ 11:47 am 
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Oh, Daniel, thanks for this post! You've just added Burgos (not that far from me really!) to my trip list. I'd love to stay at this casa rural. Oh and the one in Bilbao, too....
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